Wednesday, March 29, 2006


Inspired by fine dining in Chicago, I wanted “cuisine” and Stop and Shop had duck breasts. I sort of winged it. Pierre Franey was my best technique guide, but I didn’t like his sauce. All the recipes I looked at suggested cooking times varying from 13 minutes to 25. Pierre’s at 15 was just about perfect….for two 7 oz breast pieces.

I scored fat and put fat side down in moderately hot skillet and let the fat ooze out - my, my what a quantity of goodness. (and surprise, this AM, the fat left in bowl on kitchen counter had not solidified – am taking this as sign it is not all that unhealthful so will use it to roast potatoes) . When fat sides turns nicely brown – 8-9 minutes – turn to meaty side. I also did a turn on the sides of breast, as they were rather thick . Total cook time – 15 minutes, and during this time I constantly removed fat from pan with baster to cut down splattering and need to rewallpaper.

Moved to side plate – most (not all) fat removed from skilled, I added shallots to pan and softened them; they became a rich mahogany brown, then added slurps of balsamic vinegar and wine making a couple-three TBL of sauce.

In Chicago I had eaten delicious tiny whole potatoes that had a crisp exterior, soft interior and coarse salt atop. Simple. It was as if they were briefly thrown into a deep fryer before serving. I was sort of heading for something similar but got derailed. I steamed potatoes (tho I did cut them in half – very different thing) in Creuset, than added some olive oil, hoping to get a crisp crust. Instead the crisp bits stuck to pan and the potatoes collapsed into mush.

Red cabbage – slice it and cook it in a little water for easy preparation. But I started with enhancements - some diced bacon and onion, sauteed for a couple of minutes before adding cabbage. It cooks in about 30 minutes ( I think ) can cook more for softer texture. Other possible additives – diced apple and vinegar – but I was using latter in duck sauce and didn’t want same flavors.

Tuesday, March 07, 2006




Easy and Savory Favorite - Marcella’s Stovetop Pork

Salt then brown a 2-3 pound hunk of boneless pork roast in generous amount of oil in casserole - center cut loin works, can use other
Add vinegar – I use Balsamic for a bit of sweetness, but any will do.- so that it comes up side of meat approx 1 ½-2 inches. ( Pan diameter should be about that of meat)
Add a couple bay leaves, fresh if possible and…
Add a TBL of peppercorns – whichever type you like.
Cover and braise, keep at low simmer, for approx 1 ½ hours, turning over once or twice.
Remove meat to plate, raise heat and boil down sauce a bit
AND taste for seasoning – surprisingly, it might not be very sour, as pork juices have diluted it and you may have to add more vinegar for a proper tang – and maybe more salt. Marcella puts a knob of butter in this - rounds out taste, but not necessary.

Here the Creuset or other enameled cast iron casserole works well – can simmer slowly – but any pan will work. You can approximate ingredients and it doesn’t matter that much.

I serve with a potato/carrot mash – you can also add onion, celery, turnip, parsnip, etc.
My technique – boil veg just covered in water until tender
Drain then add cup milk or cream and butter, and let come to simmer
Mash with hand masher – adjust seasoning and consistency with more liquid if necessary.

Another use for enameled cast iron – will hold heat when covered.

Charred Bok Choy – an experiment
Cut small ones in half and put in hot dry skillet ( no oil) until they sear on both sides.
Season – can add oil if wanted

Wednesday, March 01, 2006

Salvaging Leftover Pasta – but not just any leftover pasta, as most can be successfully microzapped. I had bought some storebought fresh pasta, that, while tasting pretty good , cooked to soft and was a pile of mush when I turned the leftovers into a bowl. The following night, taking a cue from Italian baked pastas , I turned it into a shallow baking dish – so pasta itself was maybe 1 ½ deep, then sprinkled a layer of cheese over it and a thick coating of breadcrumbs, then drizzled with oil. The pasta had heated through when crumbs started browning – so there was a nice crunch before the moosch.